It would have been difficult for most women of the 18th century to imagine life without stays, the 18th century version of the modern corset. It was the basic foundation garment for women at the time and their dresses were fitted based upon its wear. Even today, a female reenactor or historical interpreter can never hope to look correct in 18th century clothing without wearing 18th century style stays.
When one looks at the Maryland Gazette, the only newspaper in Maryland until August 20, 1773 when the Maryland Journal, and the Baltimore Advertiser began publication in Baltimore Town, you find throughout the weekly issues advertisements for stay makers not only in Annapolis and Baltimore Town, but also small towns like London Town and Piscataway as well.
Advertisement for Robert Gordon
Maryland Gazette August 6, 1761
The earliest staymaker I will deal with is Robert Gordon who was operating in Annapolis as early as 1758 opposite the prison. In 1759 he moved to a house in Church Street, now Main Street, opposite tailor John Campbell and then in 1761 he moved to West Street near the town gate where he built a "commodious brick dwelling house" on the lot at the corner of West and Calvert Streets. His probate inventory includes a large assortment of tabbies as mentioned in his 1761 advertisement in the Maryland Gazette as well as whale bone of various quality levels. His list of debtors includes many well known Annapolitans, women as well as men, presumably settling accounts on behalf of their wives.
Another stay maker for whom we have records was Joseph Foard who took over the stay making business of Charles Wallace in 1764 and continued in Annapolis until his death in 1767. His probate inventory contains a list of the materials used by him and his employees in Annapolis. White satin silk and white Indian damask represent some if his shop's high end work, with ticking and tabby options also available. Also listed are a number of the other materials used by his shop. We also have a list of those who paid debts owed to his shop, giving a very nice view of his clients as well.
Advertisement for Joseph Foard
Maryland Gazette December 13, 1764
The final stay maker for whom we have a probate inventory is Alexander Ferguson who had a tailor's shop in London Town, about 4 miles from Annapolis beginning as early as 1749 and operating until his death in 1770. In 1767 he began to make stays, having had Richard Littlemore, formerly with Joseph Foard, join him in London Town and Ferguson's wife continued the shop through at least 1774. While not exclusively a stay maker, as were Gordon and Foard, Ferguson also gives an indication of some of the tools and materials of the stay maker in his probate inventory.
While stay makers did operate within the Province, some wealthy women like those of the Carroll family did import their stays directly from London to their specified measurements as the order books of Wallace, Davidson and Johnson proves. Some ready made stays were also imported directly into the Province as well by this firm.
Advertisement for Alexander Ferguson
Maryland Gazette July 30, 1767
While stay makers did operate within the Province, some wealthy women like those of the Carroll family did import their stays directly from London to their specified measurements as the order books of Wallace, Davidson and Johnson proves. Some ready made stays were also imported directly into the Province as well by this firm.
From 1771 to 1775, the Annapolis merchant firm of Wallace, Davidson & Johnson imported stays and stay goods not only for their own store on the city dock in Annapolis, but also for their stores at Queen Anne, Nottingham and Pig Point as well as for individual customer's special orders and other merchants and stay makers doing business in other parts of the Province.
What is interesting about these orders in that Charles Wallace, senior partner in the firm, started his career as a stay maker opening his own shop in Annapolis in 1749 which he operated until 1764 at which time he sold it to the earlier mentioned Foard.
Wallace, Davidson & Johnson also placed orders for stay goods for Charles Lansdale of Piscataway and Spriggs & Donaldson of Annapolis. It is interesting to know that Charles Lansdale's shop was under the direction of Richard Littlemore, who had formerly worked as a stay maker for William Beans of Prince George's County, Charles Wallace of Annapolis from 1759 or 1760 to 1764, Joseph Foard of Annapolis from 1764 to 1767 and Alexander Ferguson of London Town from 1767 to 1774, two of whom for which we have probate inventories.
Maryland Gazette advertisements for Sprigg & Donaldson and Charles Lansdale
Below is a partial transcription the probate inventories of Robert Gordon, Joseph Ford and Alexander Ferguson, as well as the order books of Wallace, Davidson and Johnson, showing the stays and stay goods as well as when and for whom they were being ordered. Included are descriptions of type, color, amount, size and even price in many cases.
It is hoped that this will provide some interesting information for other researchers as well as reenactors and tailors.
(from Maryland State Archives, Prerogative Court Inventories, Liber LXXXII, Folio 58 and 61)
(from Maryland State Archives, Prerogative Court Inventories, Liber LXXXII, Folio 58 and 61)
Probate Inventory of Robert Gordon - February 16, 1762
90 lbs of second best whale bone @5/6 £24.15.0
7 lbs of third best whale bone @5/6 £1.18.6
13 lbs very bad whale bone @3/6 £2.5.6
A parcel of tools and unfinished work £0.15.0
33 Ells of broad watered tabby @14/ £16.2.0
22 3/4 Ells narrow watered tabby @13/4 £13.13.3
3 1/2 Ells narrow watered tabby @13/4 £2.3.2
2 3/4 Ells narrow watered tabby @5/ £0.13.9
3 3/4 grosse of brade @14/ £2.12.6
6 1/2 grosse of vinction cord @9/4 £3.0.8
3/4 grosse of lacing strap @23/9 £0.19.0
2 gross of of Philadelphia cord £0.18.0
4 1/2 grosse of gallons sorted @20/ £4.10.0
27 Ells of white sassnet very bad @2/6 £3.7.6
10 ps diaper tape £0.6.8
1 lb 14 oz of wt sewing silk @46/4 £4.6.9 1/2
7 1/2 yds of white buckram @1/ £0.7.6
14 1/2 yds of glazed linen @1/ £0.14.6
20 yds of yellow canvas @2/6 £2.10.0
33 yds of scotch linen @1/ £1.13.0
5 ps of glazed linen 111 yds @1/ £5.11.0
3 ps of wt buckram 42 yds @1/4 £2.16.0
25 yds of wt ticking @4/ £5.0.0
8 yds of poleduroy @8d £0.5.4
A parcel of stay hooks and some needles £0.2.0
A servant woman named Margaret Conaway having about five years to serve £10.0.0
One servant woman named Mary Wilcox having about five years and four months to serve £10.0.0
John Fendall Esq., Charles County
John Inch, Annapolis
William Brewer
Miss Rachel Hammond
William Moore, Piscataway
John Thompson, Jr., Annapolis
Rev. Walter Chalmers
Thomas Baker
John Campbell
Allen Quinn
Thomas Pecker
Upton Scott, Esq.
Miss Rachel Darnall
Colonel Henry in Somerset
William Lockweems
William Reynolds 40/ & 5 1/2 cords of wood
Elijah Robinson
Thomas Weems
Andrew Buchanan
Mr. Rozier
John Ducker
George Gordon
Ann Sligh
Jonas Green
Jacob Lusby
Walter Murray
Nicholas Minsky
Honorable Edward Lloyd Esq.
(from Maryland State Archives, Prerogative Court Inventories, Liber XCII, Folio 216 and Liber XCVII, Folio 28)
Probate Inventory of Joseph Ford - March 17, 1767
18 lbs London whalebone @8/ £7.4.0
47 lbs Philadelphia whalebone @2/6 £5.17.6
10 3/4 lbs common stitching silk @37/ £19.17.6
2 lbs 10 oz finer stitching silk @50/ £6.11.3
5 1/2 ps galloon @7/ £1.18.6
5 ps lacing straps @7/ £1.15.0
25 ps lacing @3/ £3.15.0
5 ps breading @4/ £1.0.0
33 1/4 yards very fine tackling @6/ £1.2.6
17 yds Irish linen @3/ £2.11.0
11 yds Irish linen @3/ £1.13.0
9 yds fine jeanet @4/ £1.16.0
5 yds brown linen @1/9 £0.8.9
27 yds white buckram @1/9 £2.7.3
8 yds white Indian damask @16/ £6.8.0
1 yard white sattan @12/ £0.12.0
7 ps diaper tape @10d £0.5.10
1 lb brown thread @3/ £0.3.0
4 ps lacing @3/ £0.12.0
Stay making tools £1.0.0
1 pr new sattin stays £1.15.0
6 pr ticking and tabby stays @30/ £7.10.0
1 pr children's stays £0.6.0
2 Ells oznabrigs @1/ £0.2.0
William Hammersly
Thomas Key
Thomas Carbury
Philip Briscoe
John Hall
Ann Brooks
Elizabeth Brooks
Richard Chew
Rachel Pottenger
Sarah Harwood
Philip Thomas
Susannah Weems
Mrs. Ogle
John Ball
Samuel Middleton
William Thomas
Nathaniel Waters
John Hall, West River
Jonathan Selman
Daniel St. T. Jenifer
Basil Wheeler
Robert Brice
John Ridgley
Mrs. Carnan
Charles Orrick
Roger Boyce
Mrs. Risteau
Mrs. Meroney
John Weems
William Brown
Daniel Dulany
Thompson Mason
Alexander Warfield
Ann Dour
Thomas Harwood
Charles GrahamWilliam Bachster
Mrs. Thomas
Samuel Chew Esq.
Charles Wallas
Thomas Franklin
Mrs. Ann Dickson
Mrs. Ann Howard
Mrs. Brice
Col. Charles Ridgley
Jacob Giles
Mrs. Rivers
Nicholas Maccubbin
John Murray
John Weems Esq.
Joseph Haskins
Thomas Beale Dorsey
Reverdy Ghislen
Thomas Jennings Esq.
Mrs. Dorsey
William Paca
William Smith, Surveyor Balt.
Mrs. Dillum
Aquilla Paca
Miss Patty Paca
Henry Hall
Sarah Tolson, Kent Island
Gerrard Hopkins, Jr.
Gerrard Hopkins, Sr.
John Beale Bordley
Ann Sanders
Col. George Mason
William Bowie
Allan Bowie
Daniel Carroll
Francis King
Dr. Richard Smith
Samuel Hanson
Smith Middleton
James Edelin
Hugh McBride
Phillip Briscoe
William Lumley
Judson Coolidge
George Gantt
Edward Dyer
James Brown
Charles Wallace
Robert Darnell
William Digges, Patuxent
Dr. David Ross
William Stoddert
Ann Brooks
Elizabeth Brooks
Henry Rozier
Edward Digges
Benjamin Hall, son of Francis
Stephen Steward
Benjamin Brooks
Nathaniel Newton
Samuel Snowden
John Cary
(from Maryland State Archives, Prerogative Court Inventories, Liber CVI, Folio 274)
Probate Inventory of Alexander Ferguson - June 28, 1770
10 oz Spanish silk £1.0.0
11 oz silk twist £1.0.0
1/4 lb colored thread £0.0.10
101 1/2 doz large buttons £5.1.6
52 1/2 doz small buttons £1.15.10
15 1/4 yards of fustian £2.5.9
9 1/4 blue duroy £1.7.9
2 pair blue serge breeches £1.16.0
1 pain nankeen breeches £0.10.0
1 pair duroy breeches £0.12.0
2 yds black hair shagree £1.4.0
4 1/2 yds lasting £0.12.9
3 yds blue bath coating £1.16.0
1 callico jacket £0.10.0
1 ticking jacket £0.16.0
1 yellow callimanco jacket £0.15.0
2 3/4 yards of yellow callimanco £0.5.0
1 3/4 yards drab callimanco £0.3.6
1 velvet pattern for a jacket £0.18.0
1 3/4 yds of broad cloth £2.2.0
2 yds grey broad cloth £3.0.0
1 yard black shalloon £0.2.0
2 yds of striped linen £0.7.0
7 1/2 yds thickset £1.6.3
1 ps binding £0.2.10
1 ball blue twine £0.6.0
A parcel of old buttons £0.6.0
64 sticks of twist £2.2.4
1 black coat £1.16.0
3 taylors irons £0.8.0
4 boneing irons £0.18.0
3 pairs taylor's shears and 1 boning [ ] £0.6.0
1 pair russia drab breeches £0.8.0
6 pairs knee garters £0.12.0
5 1/2 doz of buttons £0.3.9
5 1/2 doz of buttons £0.2.0
1 old laced jacket £0.18.0
5 1/2 yds watered tabby £1.13.0
2 1/4 yds watered tabby £0.9.0
6 lbs of whale bone £1.4.0
9 yds ticking £1.10.0
8 yds of [ ] £0.16.0
3/4 yds of white saranet £0.3.0
3 ps binding £0.13.0
(from Maryland State Archives, Chancery Court (Chancery Papers, Exhibits) Wallace, Davidson Johnson, Order Books, 1771/4/25-1775/11/16. MSA S 528-27/28)
Order Books
3 December 1771
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson
Stays
6 pr womens stays sorted
12 pr childrens do do
Order Books
18 November 1772
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson
Stays
36 pr stays well sorted of the staymaker we had the last [ ]
Order Books
24 May [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson
Stay Goods
6 doz best british bone
3 doz best flab bone
3 ps ticken
3 ps white buckram
3 ps inside buckram
1 ps fine plain Russell
3 ps worsted binding to do
1 ps galloon
1 ps cord
12 ps braid
12 ps diaper tape
3 lbs best ballendine silk
300 white chappel needles blunts
300 do sharps
Stays
4 doz womens maids & girls common stays sorted
Order Books
17 October 1773
For Charles Carroll of Carrolton
(appears to now switch to goods for RD - Rachel Darnall, mother-in-law to Charles Carroll of Carrollton)
Lines Haberdashery Millinery & Hosiery
1 pair of the best moved stays to measure sent
(appears to now switch to goods for MC - Mary Carroll, wife of Charles Carroll of Carrollton)
1 pr of pack thread stays for a child at 5 years old
Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Buchannan & Cowen
Stays
2 pr girls stays 6/
2 pr girls stays 7/
2 pr girls stays 8/
2 pr womens stays 9/
2 pr womens stays 10/
2 pr womens stays 12/
2 pr womens stays 14/
2 pr womens stays 16/
Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson
Stay Goods for Charles Lansdale
2 ps best stay ticking
2 ps grey buckram
4 ps white buckram
10 ps stay braid
3 lbs best white ballandine stiching silk
6 Ells white watered taby
4 ps lacing
1 ps galloon
600 white chapple blunts No 1 ab
3 boning knives
1 fitting knife
½ lbs holing silk
1 bodkin
2 ps irish linen 1/1
15 yds Russell
3 ps quality binding
2 doz british wale bone
2 common sized boning wires
6 lbs best three cord stay thread
for Spriggs & Donaldson
6 doz best british whale bone
2 doz stay braid 2 ps ticking
2 ps irish buckram 2 ps white ticking
1 ps Pole Davie
2 lbs best white Halandine silk
2 doz ps diaper tape
2 ps stay wors’d binding
Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson’s Nottingham Store
Stays
4 pr girls stays 4/
4 pr girls stays 4/9
4 pr girls stays 5/
2 pr womens tabby breast stays 15/
2 pr womens tabby breast stays 16/
2 pr womens tabby breast stays 18/
Order Books
29 August 1774
For Mary Ireland
Stays
1 pair large girls stays 13/
Order Books
No Date [1774]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson
Stay Goods
1 doz childrens ticken stays sorted
2 doz maids & womens stays sorted
All Rights Reserved.
All Rights Reserved.
