Friday, October 26, 2012

Beyond Silks and Woollens... Mercery, Stuffs and Cardinals in Late Colonial Maryland

Outside paintings, diaries, letters and newspaper advertisements, there is one very good source which provides some insight into the variety of mercery, stuffs and cardinals which were imported into Annapolis, Maryland in the late Colonial period. In these records you will find additional silks as not every merchant at the time listed silks in a separate category, but rather listed them in with mercery or stuffs. The same was true for cardinals. 

From 1771 to 1775, the Annapolis merchant firm of Wallace, Davidson & Johnson imported mercery, stuffs and cardinals not only for their own store on the city dock in Annapolis, but also for individual customers special orders as well as other merchants doing business in other parts of the Province.

Below is a partial transcription of their order books, showing the mercery, stuffs and cardinals as well as when and for whom they were being ordered.

It is hoped that this will provide some interesting information for other researchers as well as reenactors and dress makers.

(from Maryland State Archives, Chancery Court (Chancery Papers, Exhibits) Wallace, Davidson Johnson, Order Books, 1771/4/25-1775/11/16. MSA S 528-27/28)  

Order Books
25 April 1771
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson

Stuffs
1 ps good black tammy
1 ps white do
1 ps blue do
1 ps green do
1 ps pink do
1 ps black durants
1 ps white do
1 ps blue do
1 ps green do
1 ps pink do
1 ps brown do
1 ps black callimanco
1 ps pink do
1 ps cloth colored crape
1 ps black Russell
1 ps plain brown camblet
1 ps low priced black bombazine
½ ps fine mourning crape
½ ps better do
3 ps hatband crape not to exceed 1/ p yd
4 ps fashionable dorsetteens
2 ps new fashioned check lutestrings
2 ps do clouded do
6 black quilted durants petticoats
6 blue do

Order Books
25 April 1771
For Thomas Johnson

Mercery
1 fashionable pink colored quilted silk petticoat

Order Books
25 April 1771
For George Cook

Mercery
1 pattern silk taffity for a neglege
1 blue pertain quilted petticoat

Order Books
23 January 1772
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson

Cardinal
1 womans black satin cardinal very fashionable trimmed with black & white ermine

Order Books
20 March 1772
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson

Hats Bonnets & Cloaks
No more Markt womens bonnets
3 Doz fashionable black bonnets sorted
2 doz white & colored of the newest fashion bonnets
1 doz hats sorted none black
2 doz black white & other colored cloaks of the very newest fashion some good & some satin
1 doz girls colored bonnets
½ doz boys caps with feathers

Stuffs
4 ps black tammy                                 3 ps black callimanco
4 ps white do                                        1 ps pink do
2 ps blue do                                          1 ps blue do
1 ps pink do                                          1 ps black Russell
3 ps black durants                                               2 ps crape for gounds
3 ps white do                                        12 ps black crape sorted
3 ps blue do                                          5 ps black bombazine
2 ps sky blue do                                   4 doz womens Durant quilted coats well sorted some good
2 ps pink do                                          150 yds hatband crape
2 ps green do                                        2 ps green poplin with trimmings
2 ps brown do                                       2 ps japand poplin
                                                                2 ps denmare lutestring
                                                                ½ doz pelong quilted petticoats different colors & prices
                                                                ½ doz Persian do sorted in color & price
                                                                1 ps crimson poplin with trimmings
20 ps yd wide stuff about 1/ p yd for womens common gowns sorted
12 ps brown camblet some pretty good
2 ps striped & checkered camblets as much decent stuffs as will make 30 or 40 womens gowns well sorted & not too dear for winter

Women’s Cardinals
10 doz womens scarlet cardinals from 8/. To 24/. Mostly of the cheapest sort
1 doz scarlet cloaks
1 doz colored do
The last cardinals was well bought and went of immediately

Order Books
24 October 1772
For Richard Tilghman Earle (Store at Chester Mill, Queen Anne County, just east of present day Centreville)

Cloaks & Cardinals
1 handsome purple ingrained cloth cardinal trimmed with ermine 30/.
½ doz cardinals trimmed with snailing 10/6
1 doz cloaks 10/.

Mercery
2 ps sarsnatt pale blue pink & white @ 2/4
3 ps ½ Ell English Persian to match sarsnetts
2 ps flow’d pelong pale blue and white with trimmings to match to make shades and bonnets @ 3/6
6 ps ingrain durants @ 35/
3 ps deep blue pale blue and pea green 32/6
4 ps black white & 2 cloth colors 30/
1 ps black 16 inch calimanco 32/
6 ps yd wide handsome figured stuffs 30/
4 ps tammies different colors 22/6
6 ps shalloons cloth colors from 30/ to 40/
2 ps sagathy deep blue & pea green with trimmings

Order Books
24 May [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson

Silk Cardinals
½ doz genteel fashionable silk cardinals
1 doz common do well sorted & chiefly black

Order Books
9 October 1773
For John Conman

Mercery
1 ps dark brown camblet 1/ p yd

Order Books
9 October 1773
For Benjamin Hall

Mercery
1 ps grave colored india Persian

Order Books
21 November 1773
For Hall Gilbert & Hall

Mercery
2 ps pink tammys 25/
1 ps green do 22/
2 ps pale blue durants 30/
1 ps black callimanco 34/
1 ps pink do 35/
1 ps dark blue do 35/
2 ps dark brown camblet 40/
2 ps blue do 42/
1 ps light blue do 49/
1 ps superfine brown do 54/
2 ps neat pink & light blue silveretts
1 ps fashionable colored do
½ ps pink pelong 3/6 p yd
½ ps black do 3/
½ ps blue do 3/6
½ ps blue sarcenet
½ ps white do
3 womens cloth colored cardinals 11/6
2 do black silk do 20/

Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Buchannan & Cowen

Stuffs &c
1 womans light col’d cloak large & quite plain very fine for an old woman about 40/
2 ps good blue & yellow tammy 22/
1 ps broad white do 23/
1 ps pink Ing’d do 24/
1 ps cloth col’d Durant 30/
1 ps do superfine do 33/
1 ps light blue do 34/
1 ps deep blue do 35/
1 ps red do 37/6
1 ps fash’b barleycorn Durant 31/
1 ps fash’b tobines 34/
4 ps brown camblit 30 yds 24/
2 ps fine do 38 40/
2 ps cloth col’d & blue 38 42/
1 ps cambletee 32/
2 ps good calamanco black 31/
1 ps pale blue do 33/
1 ps red do 35/
1 ps good blue sagothy 30 yds 50/
1 ps fine bro do 30 yds 54/
1 ps cloth col’d do 30 55/
2 ps good duroys 35/
Trimmings for the above
1 ps messinets 54 yds 1/5
2 ps fash’b corded poplins 40/
2 ps wors’d lutestrings 26/
1 ps fashionable brilliants
1 ps black crape

Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Archibald Buchannan

Stuffs
3 ps good blue tammy 21/6
2 ps yellow do 22/
1 ps broad white do 22/
1 ps pink in grain 24/6
6 ps handsome striped & flow’d barleycorns 30/ to 33/
3 ps do tobino 33/
3 ps figured camblitts 27/6
3 pr brown do 30/
3 ps blue green & pink do 32/
2 ps light brown do 24/ 25/
2 ps olive & garnet 30 yds 25/
1 ps fine brown 41/
1 ps fine brown camblet 34/
1 ps do 48/
1 ps fine cloth col’d durants 29/
2 ps sky blue do 28/
1 ps dup do 30/
1 ps blue calimanco 32/6
1 ps drab do 31/6
1 ps black do 32/6
1 ps brown do 31/6
1 ps pink
1 ps fine do
4 ps fash’b wor’d lutestring 26 yds ea 25/6
2 ps fash’b do clouded 26/
1 ps good black Russell 40 yds 1/6
1 ps fine cloth col’d sagothy 46/
1 ps do brown do 56/
1 ps claret do 76/
1 ps London brown do 80/
2 ps fine duroy 19/
2 ps superfine do 30/

Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson

Mercery
10 ps black gown crape
3 ps colored do
3 ps black bombazines
3 ps sagothy with complete trimmings
3 ps duroy with complete trimmings

Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson’s Nottingham Store

Mercery
1 ps brown sagothy 60/
1 ps do 66/
1 ps duroy 36/

Order Books
No Date (previously listed order was 1773)
For Aquila Hall

Mercery
1 ps good pink durants 40/
1 best fine pale blue superfine cloth cardinal with a snail round it

Order Books
19 March 1774
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson

Mercery
2 ps black tamy
2 ps blue do
2 ps white do
1 ps pink do
2 ps black Durant sor’d
2 ps white do
2 ps blue do
2 ps green do
2 ps brown do
2 ps pink do
6 ps fash’b neat stuffs for womens gowns good
4 ps black callimanco sorted
3 doz quilted Durant petticoats different colors chiefly black the remainder blue  & greens
10 ps black crape sorted
3 ps ½ Ell bombazine
6 ps colored crape
1 doz scarlet cloth cloaks from 7/6 to 11/
4 doz scarlet cardinals from 8/ to 15/ mostly middle prices
2 doz fine do from 16/ to 21/

Order Books
19 March 1774
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson’s Nottingham Store

Mercery
4 girls scarlet cloth cardinals 7/6
4 womens do trimmed with garland 10/
4 do do 12/
6 do do with furr 14/
6 do do 18/
6 large scarlet cloaks 12/
6 ps yard wide stuffs ea ps different pattern
1 ps queens stuffs      1 ps blk crape
1 ps black Russell       1 ps blk callimanco
1 ps tartin for gowns  1 ps hatband crape

Order Books
20 March 1774
For Archibald Buchannan

Mercery
4 ps fash’b striped & flo’d barlycorns 32/
2 ps do stuffs 35/
3 ps tobins 35/
5 ps fig’d yd wide stuffs 30/
2 ps fash’b dazett camblets 25/
2 ps diamond do 30/
3 ps brown cambletts 25/ 27/
1 ps blue 35/
2 ps snuff col’d do 36/ 40/
2 ps green do 37/
2 ps light do 25/
1 ps good blk Russell
3 ps cloth col’d durants 33/
3 ps blue green & white 34/
5 ps callimanco (ass’d) 30/ to 37/
1 ps blue flow’d damask 48/
1 ps light col’d do
2 ps messonetts 30 yds ea 36/
2 ps silverets
2 ps fig’d & striped camblets
2 ps clouded wors’d lutestring
3 ps fash’b stuffs for womens winter gowns
3 womens scarlet cloaks 8/
3 long do 9/
3 do do 10/
6 do dove col’d largest 8/ & 9/
6 do do cardinals so 14/
4 do do 16/
2 do do 17/
6 scarlet do 17/ & 19/

Order Books
20 March 1774
For Buchannan & Cowan

Mercery
1 ps durants 40 yds 1/6
3 large cloth col’d cloaks 7/
4 red do 8/
4 cloth colored cardinals 12/
6 do 14/
4 scarlet do 12/
6 do do 14/
6 do do 15/
6 do with ermine 18/
6 black do 12/6
3 ps brown cambletts 22/
3 ps do ass’d 24/
3 ps fine bro’d do 27/
2 ps do do 33/
2 ps quaker col’d do 38/
1 ps black tammy 22/
3 ps tammy blue white & green 23/
1 ps do pink 26/
1 fash’b checkard yd wide wors’d lutestring 32/
1 ps fine black Durant 32/
2 ps figured checkard barleycorns 32/
1 ps saxon green Durant 32/
1 ps pea green Durant 35/
1 ps white do 32/6
2 ps fine cloth col’d do 32/
2 ps supple do 35/
2 ps deep blue do 35/
2 ps pale & sky blue 35/
2 ps fine blk callimanco 31/
2 ps brown do 31/
2 ps deep & sky blue call’o 33/
2 ps pink & cherry do 36/
2 ps fash’b ½ yd check’d lutestring 24/
2 ps clouded do 26/
3 ps rich fash’b ½ yd cor’d poplin 42/
4 ps do ½ yd brilliants col’d 44/
1 ps bro camblettee 34/
2 ps green & blue 34/
2 ps fash’b queens stuff 37/6

Order Books
9 April 1774
For Hall, Gilbert & Hall

Mercery
2 ps brown camblit 36/
1 ps fine do 38/
2 ps do blue do 42/
1 ps supple blue do 50/
1 ps do brown do 50/
2 ps neat fig’d stuffs 32/
3 ps dorsetteens 26/
2 ps very neat brilliants  (fash’b)
3 ps fash’b stuffs forwinter gowns of the latest fashions
6 cloth col’d cardinals trimmed 14/
6 scarlet do do 16/

Order Books
24 April 1774
For Clement Brooke

Mercery
2 ps duroy

Order Books
10 June 1774
For Aquila Hall

Mercery
1 ps pale blue camblet 40/

Order Books
29 August 1774
For Walter Hellen

One scarlet cloth cardinal not very high priced

Order Books
29 September 1774
For William Bond

Mercery
4 ps sagotheys diff’t colored & prices
6 ps figured stuffs different prices
2 ps figured poplins diff’t do
3 ps callimanco different colored
3 ps sky blue durants
6 ps camblets different prices
2 ps mixd silk do diff’t do
1 ps black everlasting
1 doz scarlet cardinals 15/
½ doz light colored do 15/

Order Books
1 November 1774
For William Bond

Mercery
6 ps camblets sorted
3 ps figured stuffs

Order books
No Date [1774]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson

Mercery
4 ps duroys well sorted
3 ps sagothy well sorted
4 ps fashionable mens crapes
4 ps black crape sorted
5 ps tammy black blue white pink & green
6 ps durants these colors & brown
2 ps black callimanco
2 ps blue do
3 ps good brown camblets sorted
4 black quilted Durant petticoats
4 blue do do
2 pink do do
2 green do do
1 ps black Russell

Order Books
17 November 1774
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson’s Nottingham Store ordered by Edward Botelar

Mercery
2 ps tammys black & white
3 ps durants black blue & green
3 ps callimanco black blue & pink
1 ps fashionable dayzett yard wide
1 ps do tobine do
1 ps do diamontee do
1 ps nonpareil
2 ps figured yard wide stuffs
1 ps blue camblett about 14 yds
1 ps drab colored do do
1 ps bombazine black              2 womens scarlet cloth
2 ps sagothys blue & brown                cardinals 12/6
1 ps fine duroys                         2 do do 13/
2 ps neat hair cambletts          2 do do 14/
1 ps sky blue rich crape            2 do do 16/
1 ps black Russell                      2 womens cloth cardinals 18/
Trimmings for the sagothy duroys hay cambletts & crape let the buttons for the crape be silver

Order Books
No Date [1774]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson’s Queen Anne Store

Mercery
3 ps camblets blue green & cloth colored 38 yds ea 48/
2 ps callimanco blue & black 32/
1 ps pink do 35/
1 ps black Russell 40 yards 60/
3 ps tammy blue green & black 24/
1 ps pink do 27/6
3 ps durants blue black & green 35/
1 ps pink do 37/6
3 ps figured & checked yard wide 32/6
2 ps tobine queen stuff 24 yards each 24/
2 ps do do 27/
1 ps yard wide light blue brocaded mecklinberg 30 yards 70/
1 ps silveret 20 yards 40/
1 ps ¾ queen stuff 26 yards 26/
1 ps colored crape 56 yards 80/
1 ps black and blue do 70/
1 ps Italian do for hatbands 20 yds 25/
1 ps tartan 54 yards 72/
2 ps duroy 18 yards 18/
2 ps fine do 24 yards 34/
1 ps sagothy 24 yards 36/
1 ps fine do 24 yards 48/
3 ps durants for duroys & sagothys 35/
Buttons & twist for do 15/
1 ps black sugdenim 30 yds 90/
2 ps lasting red and black 50/
Buttons silk & twist for denim & last’d 10/
2 red cloth cardinals 10/
2 do do 12/
2 do do 15/
2 do do 18/
2 do do 20/

Order Books
No Date [1774]
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson’s Pig Point Store

Mercery
2 worsted figures yard wide 30/
2 do do 32/
1 ps mourning crape 56 yds 75/
1 ps changeable do 80/
1 ps black tammys 24/
1 ps cloth colored do 25/
1 ps blue do 25/
1 ps green do 25/
1 ps pink in grain do 27/
1 ps black Durant 30/
1 ps white do 30/6
1 ps black callimanco 30/
1 ps blue do 28/
1 ps green do 28/6
1 ps pink in grain do 40/
1 ps brown dble wrapped camblet 39/
1 ps Italian crape 28 yds 1/6
1 ps ½ Ell black Russell 30 yds 50/
1 ps black cotton denim 15 yds 3/9
1 ps light blue duroy 20 yds 20/
1 ps fine brown do 24 yds 36/
1 ps do sagothy 58/
1 ps light blue do 60/
2 striped mozeens 25 yds 2/2
12 doz best coat dthead buttons @ 10d
12 doz breast do 5
1 ps bombazine 61 yards 1/9
16 yds white casmire 8/
5 doz coat dthead buttons for do 10d
4 doz vest do 5

Order Books
8 January 1775
For Charles Carroll of Carrolton

(appears to now switch to goods for RD)

Mercery
3 yards of the finest Marseilles Waving of the widest sort for a petticoat

N.B. This invoice to be packed under its proper mark

(appears to now switch to goods for MC)

Mercery
1 pea green stuff quilted petticoat made very light

N.B. This and the following invoice may be packed in one package. All the other carefully packed under their respective mark.

Order Books
20 March 1775
For Hall Gilbert & Hall

Mercery
1 ps brown camblett 36/
1 ps fine do 38/
2 ps neat figured stuffs 32/

Order Books
1 August 1775
For Alexander Ogg

Mercery
3 ps sagothy different colors 2/4 to 3/
2 ps duroys dark colors 1/6 to 1/10
1 ps green camblet 1/
1 ps brown do 1/
3 ps black callimanco 1/1
8 ps fash’b stuffs 4/4 different colors
1 ps green calamanco 1/1
1 ps blue do 1/2
1 ps red do 1/
2 ps black durants 1/
2 ps blue do 11d
1 ps green do 1/1
1 ps red do 10
1 ps black tammy 10
1 ps blue do 9 ½
1 ps red do 11
1 ps yellow do 9
1 ps green do 10
½ doz black flowered silk cardinals
½ doz plain do

Order Books
[  ] September 1775
For John Wilson

Mercery
1 ps blue or pale blue callimanco

Order Books
29 September 1775
For James Hutchings

Mercery
1 ps laylock colored silk 14 yards (lutestring)

Order Books
10 September 1775
For Edward Abell

Mercery
1 ps pink tammy 24/
1 ps green do 24/
1 ps yellow do 20/
1 ps black do 20/
6 scarlet cardinals 10/
3 do 12/
3 do 14/
3 do 16/
30 Ells black alamode 2/6

All Rights Reserved.

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