It would have been difficult for most women of the 18th century to imagine life without stays, the 18th century version of the modern corset. It was the basic foundation garment for women at the time and their dresses were fitted based upon its wear. Even today, a female reenactor or historical interpreter can never hope to look correct in 18th century clothing without wearing 18th century style stays.
When one looks at the Maryland Gazette, the only newspaper in Maryland until August 20, 1773 when the Maryland Journal, and the Baltimore Advertiser began publication in Baltimore Town. Throughout the weekly issues of the Maryland Gazette can be found advertisements for staymakers not only in Annapolis and Baltimore Town, but also small towns like London Town and Piscataway as well.
While stay makers did operate within the Province, some wealth women like those of the Carroll family did import their stays directly from London to their specified measurements. Some ready made stays were also imported directly into the Province as well.
When one looks at the Maryland Gazette, the only newspaper in Maryland until August 20, 1773 when the Maryland Journal, and the Baltimore Advertiser began publication in Baltimore Town. Throughout the weekly issues of the Maryland Gazette can be found advertisements for staymakers not only in Annapolis and Baltimore Town, but also small towns like London Town and Piscataway as well.
While stay makers did operate within the Province, some wealth women like those of the Carroll family did import their stays directly from London to their specified measurements. Some ready made stays were also imported directly into the Province as well.
From
1771 to 1775, the Annapolis merchant firm of Wallace, Davidson &
Johnson imported stays and stay goods not only for their own store on the city dock
in
Annapolis, but also for their stores at Queen Anne, Nottingham and Pig
Point as well as for individual customer's special orders and other
merchants and stay makers doing business in other parts of the Province.
What is interesting about these orders in that Charles Wallace, senior partner in the firm, started his career as a stay maker opening his own shop in Annapolis in 1749 which he operated until 1764.
Wallace, Davidson & Johnson also placed orders for stay goods for Charles Lansdale of Piscataway and Spriggs & Donaldson of Annapolis. It is interesting to know that Charles Lansdale's shop was under the direction of Richard Littlemore, who had formerly worked as a stay maker for William Beans of Prince George's County, Charles Wallace of Annapolis from 1759 or 1760 to 1764, Joseph Foard of Annapolis from 1764 to 1767 and Alexander Fergusson of London Town from 1767 to 1774.
What is interesting about these orders in that Charles Wallace, senior partner in the firm, started his career as a stay maker opening his own shop in Annapolis in 1749 which he operated until 1764.
Wallace, Davidson & Johnson also placed orders for stay goods for Charles Lansdale of Piscataway and Spriggs & Donaldson of Annapolis. It is interesting to know that Charles Lansdale's shop was under the direction of Richard Littlemore, who had formerly worked as a stay maker for William Beans of Prince George's County, Charles Wallace of Annapolis from 1759 or 1760 to 1764, Joseph Foard of Annapolis from 1764 to 1767 and Alexander Fergusson of London Town from 1767 to 1774.
Below
is a partial transcription of their order books, showing the stays and stay goods
as well as when and for whom they were being ordered. Included are
descriptions of type, color, amount, size and even price in many cases.
It is hoped that this will provide some interesting information for other researchers as well as reenactors and tailors.
(from Maryland State Archives, Chancery Court (Chancery Papers, Exhibits) Wallace, Davidson Johnson, Order Books, 1771/4/25-1775/11/16. MSA S 528-27/28)
Order Books
3 December 1771
For Wallace Davidson and
Johnson
Stays
6 pr womens stays sorted
12 pr childrens do do
Order Books
18 November 1772
For Wallace Davidson and Johnson
Stays
36 pr stays well sorted of
the staymaker we had the last [ ]
Order Books
24 May [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and
Johnson
Stay Goods
6 doz best british bone
3 doz best flab bone
3 ps ticken
3 ps white buckram
3 ps inside buckram
1 ps fine plain Russell
3 ps worsted binding to do
1 ps galloon
1 ps cord
12 ps braid
12 ps diaper tape
3 lbs best ballendine silk
300 white chappel needles
blunts
300 do sharps
Stays
4 doz womens maids &
girls common stays sorted
Order Books
17 October 1773
For Charles Carroll of
Carrolton
(appears to now switch to goods for RD)
Lines Haberdashery
Millinery & Hosiery
1 pair of the best moved
stays to measure sent
(appears to now switch to goods for MC)
1 pr of pack thread stays
for a child at 5 years old
Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Buchannan & Cowen
Stays
2 pr girls stays 6/
2 pr do 7/
2 pr do 8/
2 pr womens do 9/
2 pr do 10/
2 pr do 12/
2 pr do 14/
2 pr do 16/
Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and
Johnson
Stay Goods for Charles
Lansdale
2 ps best stay ticking
2 ps grey buckram
4 ps white do
10 ps stay braid
3 lbs best white ballandine
stiching silk
6 Ells white watered taby
4 ps lacing
1 ps galloon
600 white chapple blunts No
1 ab
3 boning knives
1 fitting do
½ lbs holing silk
1 bodkin
2 ps irish linen 1/1
15 yds Russell
3 ps quality binding
2 doz british wale bone
2 common sized boning wires
6 lbs best three cord stay
thread
for Spriggs & Donaldson
6 doz best british whale
bone
2 doz stay braid 2 ps ticking
2 ps irish buckram 2 ps white do
1 ps Pole Davie
2 lbs best white Halandine
silk
2 doz ps diaper tape
2 ps stay wors’d binding
Order Books
No Date [1773]
For Wallace Davidson and
Johnson’s Nottingham Store
Stays
4 pr girls stays 4/
4 pr do 4/9
4 pr do 5/
2 pr womens tabby breast
stays 15/
2 pr do 16/
2 pr do 18/
Order Books
29 August 1774
For Mary Ireland
Stays
1 pair large girls stays
13/
Order Books
No Date [1774]
For Wallace Davidson and
Johnson
Stay Goods
1 doz childrens ticken
stays sorted
2 doz maids & womens do
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All Rights Reserved.
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